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By: Ulrike Schmidt
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Munich - Chief buyer Justin O’Shea (35) sits in the front row at the fashion weks - he orders Prada and Co. on a large scale.In the TZ interview, the style icon reveals, among other things, what is fashionable in spring and summer 2015.
He sits in the front row at the international fashion shows in Paris, Milan, London or New York.He decides what will be announced in the coming season.What he ordered has to become an IT piece: Justin O’Shea (35).A random smile does not slip into the face of the chief buyer of the luxury shop Theresa and the online shop Mytheresa.com in the public controlled by photographers (except in an interview with TZ columnist Ulrike Schmidt), and his water blue eyes cover sunglasses.This is his style.And that's his business.
Justin O’Shea is an icon in international fashion buses.He himself wears a tailor -made suit and a strictly geometric haircut - in the wild contrast to full beard and anarch tattoos.
His employer sits in Munich, his workplace is the whole world.His adopted home is Berlin, his roots are nowhere in Australian, where he grew up as the son of a teacher and a mining worker and hung around with surfers.Sold Justin O’Shea in the shop of his friend Jeans and sneakers, now Victoria Beckham, Miuccia Prada, Stella McCartney or Marc Jacobs are his conversation partners.
For an interview, he chose the rooms in the Spatenhaus with a view of the opera as a location - because he loves the style of the old world so much ... Justin O'Shea is a cool guy who in conversation - but in English - a lot of warmthand smile reveals ...
Where do you come from?
Justin O’Shea: from Berlin.I was traveling for four weeks now and there to wash my clothes at the weekend, today I am in Munich to see them, then go back to Berlin and then I fly to New York and I'm away for two months.
Sounds like stressful life ...
O’Shea: No.Just pack and wrinkle after a lot.I am the best folder you have ever met!I am German ...!
But you don't speak German ...?
O’Shea: Unfortunately.no
You have a German friend, the fashion editor Veronika Heilbrunner.
O’Shea: Yes.But if I spoke German with my girlfriend, it would be over quickly;Because how could I be charming if I can't even say in German: You look real sexy, baby!
Where are you at home - where do you feel home?You have already lived in Amsterdam, London and Munich before moving to Berlin a year ago ...
O’Shea: For the first time I feel really at home in Berlin.But London is also home to me.And of course Australia forever.But I bought furniture for the first time in Berlin.
"I need the exchange with women (...). I have to guess your wishes"
How can you imagine a love between two fashion people?Is it just about appearance?
O’Shea: Well, I hope it's a little more ...!Of course - that's true - we talk about work in 98 percent of our time together.But I love that because I also work 98 percent of my time!Even if I come home after three months of traveling and shouldn't really talk about clothes and fashion Weeks: it is the only thing I like to talk about.Because the only thing I do is work.I love it!It makes me happy!Alone to see that I had 19 employees at mythheresa.com at the beginning and now there are 250. I need an exchange with women - I have to know how high heels feel, for example.I have to guess your wishes.And I'm pretty good in that!
So good that your online business continuously grows by more than 50 percent every year!How have you changed personally-with your career from the T-shirt seller in Australia to the chief buyer?
O’Shea: This is actually very funny, because as a young guy I didn't care about clothes at all. At that time it would have been uncool in my circle of friends in Australia to talk about it. Only when I started working in the shop did I get to know people who claimed to love fashion over everything. So I started to deal with it and form my own opinion on which customers attached value to. But I haven't had this business gen. Not even when I moved to Amsterdam as a shop manager, where I learned a lot. Then London came. I was 25, 26. And there, with my first shopping job, I also did a lot wrong. When I came to Mytheresa.com six years ago, it was clear to me: Now you have to change your life! Until then, I had liked to party; I needed another image. I wanted to be as successful as my friends. For this I also had to change my appearance - towards a focused busninessman.
In the past, O'Shea only wore jeans and T-shirts, then the suits came ...
So they have become a style icon - famous ...
O’Shea: I'm only interested in doing a good job, nothing else.I don't look at any photos of myself, no interviews - I don't want to get lost in the feeling that it was about me.It's not about me, just about the company I represent.
You represent this with an unmistakable, extravagant style.How did you develop it?
O’Shea: When I moved to London, there was only black or white jeans, black or white T-shirts, black jacket, dock martens.We all had the same thing.Until Steve Edge, a businessman and always perfectly dressed in tweed suits, invited me to accompany him to a charity dinner of Prince Charles.I had to be well dressed.So I bought my first used suit - with pinstripes.It felt good - and from then on I just wanted to wear suits, but I couldn't afford it yet.But with my job at Mytheresa.com I started not wearing anything else.
Where do you shop?
O’Shea: I have a tailor in New York - he does almost everything.But I also buy in the Acne Studios - because they always sit perfectly.
How many suits do you have?
O’Shea: Oh, now quite a few!Jake in New York made me 16, plus 15 Acne studios suits, some of Prada, around 35. If there are too many, I will keep going to friends.
"What every woman should have: the Little Black Leather Jacket"
What must a woman have in her closet?
O’Shea: depends on the woman!You have to dress according to your personality.If you don't like a trendy piece of clothing - everything is of no use.A woman has to put on authentically.But what every woman should have: the Little Black Leather Jacket - a black leather jacket.A great coat - one of the most important items of clothing at all, because it hides a lot and the first glance always falls on the coat.
Has the cabinet content changed over time?
O’Shea: Yes, because there is no longer the dictation, for example in the evening only high heels or in the office only to wear formal ones, it can also be casual if it is good.The British fashion designer Phoebe Philo revolutionized the rules when she came to Celine.She made flat shoes cool, created a minimalist aesthetics and brought trousers back for the evening.And suddenly women are no longer just for men, but for each other - casual, provocative.
Then the long evening robe will soon be a passé?
O’Shea: If you had asked me a year and a half ago, I would have said.But not now, because of social media.Take a look at the Grammys - everyone could see which dress Beyoncé or Rihanna was wearing.And everyone wants to have the most exciting dress and show this directly via social media.The red carpet is again the place where you can shine - there is a real competition again.Long robes are back.
Have you ever made a bad purchase?"Yes and no"
Have you ever made a bad buy for mythheresa.com?
O’Shea: Yes.I bought a few things that didn't sell as well as I thought.
What?
O’Shea: I don't tell you.But it wasn't necessarily a bad buy;Sometimes you want to push a trend - and at this certain time the customers are not yet ready, for example minimalism.But I also have to tell a story as a luxury shop, and not everything I buy can be sold, but it is important for the image.
Speaking of image: where is your sunglasses?
O’Shea: In my pocket.I always wear them because I usually have very tired eyes.
There are thousands of photos of them - but none do you laugh?Does that belong to your style?
O’Shea: I'm just not a smile.And I'm not super happy either, to be photographed;It is easier not to smile.By the way, my mother says the same thing: there are so many photos on the Internet and you don't smile on any ... I smile inside!
As O’Shea sees the fashion summer 2015
What did you buy?What is in?
Justin O’Shea: This summer is that of the 1970s.And only 70s!If you don't like them, stay at home!(Laughs).What the season will do so successful: there is no one who doesn't like the 70s!There are a lot of facets: the girl in Woodstock, the natural child with flowers in the hair, the Easy-Rider women, Dries van Notens Colorful Hippie-Trippy stuff, the white things from Erdem or Givenchy.The shoes are flat - espadrilles and sneakers, also Wedges.Everything very casual.For Chloé this will be the boom season!There is a lot of leather and you can combine heavy materials with very lightly-for example givenchy boots with a white lace dress, opposite, which works together.
Which colors dominate?
O’Shea: water colors, mint, pastel pink, violet - the bright colors, also pure white.In addition, earth colors, tabacco, many different shades of brown - Mocca, Camel.
Will the trend also last next year?
O’Shea: Yes.The 1970s will continue in autumn, plus a little 60s.Such a main topic must first prevail.
What can I do wrong?
O’Shea: It has to be authentic!Everything dissolves a bit-like the tight, sexy high-heels outfit.The fun dominates!
tz-engruit word: mytheresa.com
... is an online shop for designer collections that delivers to more than 120 countries and is based in Munich.According to Handelsblatt, sales are around 100 million euros annually.
Gegründet wurde die Online-Plattform 2006 von Susanne und Christoph Botschen, die schon seit 1987 das stationäre Geschäft Theresa erfolgreich betrieben haben – mit den angesagtesten Luxusmarken der Welt. In der Maffeistraße verkaufen über 30 Mitarbeiter mehr als 100 Designerkollektionen – darunter Céline, Prada, Balenciaga, Christian Louboutin, Dolce & Gabbana, Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney oder Valentino. Theresa und mytheresa.com wurden 2014 an den US-Nobelkonzern Neiman Marcus Group verkauft.
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